Wednesday, January 16, 2013

Not all who wander are in Laos

But several of them are.

Now that Janine has gone back to the US for the holiday season, I have continued on to Laos on my own.

8:00pm Sleeper Train Bangkok-Nong Khai

I took the overnight train from Bangkok to Non Khai, Thailand, and switched trains there to cross the border into Laos. After our first experience with Thailand night trains, I elected to go 'First Class' on this trip. First Class is really the only way to travel in Thailand, even the cockroaches know that.
One of my many bunk mates in First Class!


My berth was the last berth on the train, so I was just a few steps away from the back window, which was kind of a neat perspective. Luckily, it seems that no one bought the bunk above me, so I had the berth all to myself.
My berth - the couch converts into bunk bed
The view out the caboose.






 













      The ride itself was uneventful, despite the roaches, I got a solid nights sleep. When I arrived in Non Khai, (2 hrs late) everyone had to pass through customs and immigration to get onto the train to Laos. This second train was mostly westerners, and only had about 30 people on it. The train brought us across the “Thailad-Laos Friendship Bridge” across the Mekong. On the Laos side, I had to get my Visa, for which I paid $35, and was given a counterfeit $5 as change. In Laos, you can use the local currency, Kip, otherwise most places will take USD and Thai Baht. The Lao Kip trades at about 8,000 Kip = $1. I've been routinely buying things that cost 50,000 Kip, and I stayed at a hotel that was 145,000 Kip, (or about $19).  It starts to give the false impression that you are the richest person you know.

I grouped up with a German Couple to take a Songteau (covered pick-up truck) to the city's capital for 100 Baht - They'll take whatever currency you've got in Laose. I walked around the city in the process of finding my hotel, and checked in. The proprietor was very friendly, and took me up to show me the room. After several attempts at unlocking the door, he apologized and motioned at the key, indicating that for some reason the key was the wrong one, he said “a few minutes” and ran down the stairs, returning triumphantly with a new key. This key didn't work either. This process of leaving and returning (always triumphantly) happened about 4 times. I decided that I was impressed with the security of the place, if you couldn't even get in with the right key. On the fourth failure, he took me to another room.

It seemed that they were not intending on having anyone stay in this room, as there were someone else's clothes in the closet, and a dead cockroach on the floor of the bathroom. But the A/C worked and so did the shower, and that's all that really mattered to me at that moment.
I debated calling it a day at that point, but I was driven by hunger to go walk around. Also, my goal in Vientiane was to get my Vietnam Visa from the embassy, and it was supposed to take 3 days, so the sooner I got the ball rolling the sooner I could move on to another part of Laos. It took about 5 minutes.
A decent looking restaurant was hard to come by, so by the time I actually found one I was starving. Even though I was the only customer, the waitress seemed to feel that my wanting to purchase food was extremely inconvenient. The food was good though, and with a large beer, my total bill came to about $4.

The next day I set off to see the major sites of the town. I had a tastey breakfast at the Scandinavian bakery (though it was far more expensive than other places) and within 3 hrs I had seen the Mekong, the market, the Black Stupa and the Victory monument. There wasn't much else to see.
Stupa - Interesting mix of old and new
The Mighty Mekong is less mighty in dry season




"Hooray! We're free from the French!"

The Victory monument was pretty cool though. Built in celebration of their independence from the French, it was ironically modeled after the Arc de Triumphe in Paris. It looked very similar, but with a southeast Asian flair to it. Having decided Vientiane did not have much to offer, I decided to head out the following day to get to Vang Vieng, Laos.

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